Installation and Finished Product and Software
As part of the initial setup, you need to take the legs and adjust them to the correct socket. Here, we need to slide it from the left AMD location, and move it right. Once that is done, you insert the rubber into the groove to keep the leg from moving back.
For our test system, we will be using the 115X mounting holes. You install the inserts by forcing them to snap into the back plate. This requires the use of something to press the insert, like pliers, or a screwdriver.
After getting the inserts into the plate, the last thing you will need to do is to apply the foam padding down both sides of the plate. The 3M covering is then peeled off to allow this plate to stick to the back of the motherboard.
With AMD, either end up is fine, but with Intel you need to be sure to get the plate on correctly or the socket mounting screws will make the plate sit funny, and disrupt the mounting process.
After taking the metal ring and guiding it through the grooves on the side of the head unit, it then twists to lock into the head unit. At that point, you can go about sending the thumbscrews down to mount the head unit to the motherboard.
The USB 2.0 cable is sleeved black to help hide it, but there is plenty of length to run it behind the motherboard tray, and still make it to the bottom of the motherboard for connectivity.
This is how we chose to mount the Kuhler H20 1250 for testing. Actually, with the limited amount of tubing, and the chassis being so large, there weren't too many options as to where we could hang the radiator without too much strain on the shorter tubing.
The GRID Software has failed for me, and it's not the first time I have had issues with Antec software. With a fresh Windows 8 installation, installing the software did launch the app, but the RPMs were at 9999 before it dropped to all zeros, and the -29 degree temperature isn't very accurate. What sucks is that due to this, the fan controls, LED controls, and the settings are non-functional.
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