Nitro Concepts E-Racer Sim Racing Chassis Review

Introduction, Specifications, and Pricing

Nitro Concepts has released their first sim racing simulator frame built from an Aluminium profile, called the E-Racer. Advertising for this chassis on the Nitro Concepts website includes key points, stating the frame is designed for anyone who seeks to build an ultimate Sim-Racing experience, with exceptional build quality, compact design, and modular features. Nitro Concepts also says that the E-Racer is perfect for high-intensity usage with high-end racing equipment. Well, luckily for me, I have one here to test out and see if Nitro Concepts has indeed built something worth your consideration.

Today, I have a few components to go over, and right now, they are not available for the US market, so pricing has been converted from GBP at the time of writing. All in all, I have here the E-Racer frame ($442), R300 Bucket Seat ($312), and E-Racer Monitor Stand ($130). Our package price then comes in at a grand total of $884, plus shipping.

The E-Racer is a compact package, as Nitro Concepts mentions, measuring in at 124cm long and 60cm wide, so it is suitable for smaller spaces around the home. Time then to see if it's worth the investment, and give the Nitro Concepts E-Racer a test drive.

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Packaging & Building 1

The Nitro Concepts E-Racer arrived in three separate boxes: the frame, the chair, and finally the monitor stand. First, let's go over the frame itself.

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My E-Racer arrived safely via a pallet and was then brought through the house for building. It's weighty, coming in at 26.75kg, but is light in comparison to some aluminum-based frames that are available. The packaging is plain with a small image of the frame on the side.

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Opening up the top of the box, we have the first parts of the chassis. Here, we are greeted by the wheel deck and pedal tray, with the included instruction manual sitting on top.

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Lifting out the top closed cell tray and the pedal plate, the bottom layer of parts includes brackets, cover caps, and screws, with the aluminum profiles laid underneath.

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All of the aluminium profiles arrive individually wrapped to protect the finish. We will put these aside for now until we are ready to start building.

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Nitro Concepts also includes a cable management hose with clips to secure it to the chassis. The manual is a nice inclusion, rather than having to rely on a digital copy, but this is available on the Nitro Concepts website, should you ever lose the booklet. While basic, the instructions seem straightforward. This is a fairly simple chassis, so putting it together shouldn't be too difficult.

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Our pedal tray arrived pre-assembled, so that's nice to have. The tray can support mounting of pedals from MOZA, Fanatec, Logitech, Thrustmaster, Asetek, Simucube, Simagic, VRS, Heusinkveld, CAMMUS, and PXN. Nitro Concepts also states that the pedal tray can be drilled to allow fitment of other pedals too; the same goes for the wheel deck, which we will look at soon.

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Looking at the tray from above and below, it's a lot smaller than others I have seen, but this is a compact rig, and it seems suitable for most users' needs. All the mounting rows are visible with slot rails for front-to-back adjustment on the frame itself.

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Showing the sides both externally and internally, there are a number of holes for pivot adjustment, with a thumb wheel to tighten each side into place. I like having the ability to change the angle of my pedals for the most comfortable experience, and having the pedal faces almost vertical. Obviously, that is my personal preference, but you can adjust to suit your own style.

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Looking at some of the other components, again, everything arrives individually bagged. There is a strengthening bar, corner brackets with cover caps, and adjustable feet to level the frame.

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Nitro Concepts includes two sets of plates. These are for the frame uprights that the wheel deck connects to. You have the option for an angled setup or a straight one, again down to personal preference. These are the only parts that connect the uprights to the bottom frame, so I will be curious to see how strong these are during use and whether the frame will flex at all. Also pictured are the wheel deck and all the mounting hardware we will need to build the frame.

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Unwrapping the aluminium profile, this is a 40x80-based aluminium frame. For those who don't know, 40 relates to the profile width (40mm), while the 80 refers to its height (80mm). Aluminum profile-based frames are typically available in a range of profile sizes, from 40x40 to 40x160, and are fairly common. Essentially, the higher the numbers, the more rigid the frame will be. All profiles arrive pre-drilled and threaded, and while unboxing, there was only a little amount of debris in the channels. I would advocate always flushing out profiles before building to remove any trapped filings from production.

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Nitro Concepts has decided not to use a standard, flat face type of profile, instead going with a curved variant. While this affects the aesthetics to cut down on the hard corners, it also has an impact on its versatility and future mounting, upgrading, and DIY solutions. Aluminium profile is so popular due to its versatility and ability to customize everything to your exact wishes, so this might hold you back if you want to change or add something down the line.

Packaging & Building 2

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It's time to start building the bottom of the frame. Following the instructions, I inserted the T-Nuts into the profile channels, flipping forward in the manual; these are for the seat and uprights to attach to, along with the pedals tray.

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Next, it was time to install the corner brackets. It only took around ten minutes to get to a point where I had a completed bottom frame section. Inserting the T-Nuts before attaching the corners is essential, as you don't have access to the channels after these are installed. The corner mounts look and feel quite substantial, and I have no immediate qualms over their strength to keep the frame as rigid as possible. The brackets also include a threaded hole for the leveling feet that I will install soon.

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That's it then, the bottom is done, well, almost.

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Time to add the feet and the corner cover caps. There is only a small range of adjustment from the included feet, but they are long enough to get the frame sitting level on most surfaces. The cover caps are great too; these take a little force to click into place, but don't feel like they will fall out any time soon, something that I did pick up Trak Racer for on the TR120S V2.

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My next job was to attach the chair side supports. These also feel well-made, strong, and durable. Each side is connected by first adding a screw to the T-Nut, and then the bracket slots into place over it. To add more stability, these mounts include a lip that locks into the profile channel.

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Rinse and repeat for the other side, and the back section is now complete.

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Now I faced a conundrum. Do I go with the angled uprights or straight? My personal preference is straight, as this keeps things simple and hopefully more rigid, so it's time to connect the correct plates to the frame. These plates are quite thick, but I still have my reservations about how they will perform.

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As with everything else so far, installation was easy, with the plates attaching to some of the T-Nuts I installed earlier. Now it's a case of positioning these at the correct distance away from the front of the frame, as the manual tells you. This is to allow the pedal plate support to be installed in front of the uprights.

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Included with the E-Racer are preinstalled trims to some of the profile channels. The bottom frame features a black trim, with white versions also included. I've left the base in black, and I will use the white in the uprights.

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For the uprights, Nitro Concepts includes four end cover caps. When the uprights are mounted using the angle plates, these can be installed on the bottom. As I am mounting these vertically, this means that the open end of the upright will rub against the bottom frame. To prevent or minimize scratches, I will install the end cap after I have slotted the upright onto the plate. This way, the T-Nuts can be installed, and then the cap added as it slides down the profile.

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With both uprights in place, the frame is fast taking shape.

Packaging & Building 3

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The only issue I had during the whole assembly happened here. The uprights are connected using four M8x16 countersunk screws, but I was two short. I searched everything I had unboxed and never found them, so I assume they were missed. I used one of the button head screws as a temporary measure, and had a rummage around to see what I could find in my spares bin. Luckily, I had some M8x16 here, I assume left over from the Trak Racer TR120S V2, so these were installed. It may be a case I just got unlucky with the sample I was sent, but I wanted to include this so you know it happens from time to time.

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Before I install the wheel deck, I have added the front strengthening bar to the uprights. This is finished with the Nitro Concepts logo on each face, black on black, and I think it looks quite nice. A quick bit of measuring to get this nice and level, four screws, and this was another job completed.

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Time to take a look at the included wheel deck. As with the pedals, most common manufacturers are included in Nitro Concepts' list of compatible wheels, with drilling possible if needed on the deck. The deck is thick, with bent edges that I assume add strength and rigidity to it. Like PC cases, sim frames can be fingerprint magnets, as you can see above. The sides of the deck allow for angle and some front-to-back adjustment to be made when installed to the rest of the frame.

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Installation, with two bolts on each side, was a little bit fiddly; I could have done with a second pair of hands to help guide the T-Nuts into the profile channels, but it wasn't arduous. Adding the end caps was the finishing touch to the upright assembly.

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We are almost on the home stretch; the front pedal support is next. Two brackets are attached to the profile piece, and these then slot over some preinstalled bolts, similar to how the seat mounts were attached. With this in place and square to the frame, everything can be tightened up, ready to install the pedal tray. Make sure you add in four T-Nuts first, though, I forgot, and had to remove the bar and end bracket to slot them in!

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Now, the pedal tray is installed, and that is the actual frame, now completed. The pedal tray angle can now be adjusted to how I want it to sit. I may still adjust this again once I get some pedals installed. Overall, despite having to take photos and hunt for some missing bolts, the whole build process has been really straightforward, only taking a couple of hours to complete. The chassis is compact, I like the design, and I am keen to get testing, first though, we have a couple more items to unbox and install!

Packaging & Building 4

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The seat Nitro Concepts sent over is their R300 bucket seat. This seat incorporates a fiberglass shell, five-point harness slots, and removable, washable seat cushions and back padding. Given its construction, the seat weighs in at just 10.4kg and can accommodate drivers up to 120kg.

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Nitro Concepts embroidery adorns the top of the seat, front, and back.

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The seat is side-mounted, with two-part base cushions filled with foam to provide support.

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While I won't cover the installation of the seat slider and mounts, we will still have a look at the contents, and I will show you the finished article soon!

Each side comes with the slide rail preinstalled, so there is literally nothing to set up, and it makes installation a breeze. The seat side mounts have a range of adjustment holes, so that you can angle your seat as needed, with some height adjustment also possible.

Two bolts on each side are all that is needed to attach this kit to the mounts I installed on the frame. Four bolts later, add the release handle that simply slots into place, and it's done!

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I have one last thing to build, and then we can move on to testing and my final thoughts. We can't race without a monitor, and now we have to build the Nitro Concepts Monitor Stand. The stand arrives again in a fairly nondescript box with a picture of the stand on the front.

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Once again, everything has arrived safe and sound, with parts wrapped to protect them during transit. With most of the parts out of the box, the frame is made using tubular sections that simply bolt together. The stand includes feet to level with the floor, just like the chassis, and weights under 10kg, so it's portable enough if you need to move things around from time to time.

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With clear instructions and the required mounting screws, the frame went together very easily. The angled sections can be moved towards the front or back of the base frame to allow your monitor to sit closer, or further away from the wheel base, with extra mounting holes in the base sections.

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Now the base is built, two uprights give the monitor stand its height, ready to mount the monitor bracket. The stand measures 80cm in depth, 69 cm in width, and 111cm in height.

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With the final piece in position, you can see this is essentially a TV VESA wall mount design, but it is certainly adequate, with a limited amount of adjustment vertically, having two heights it can be installed at. The VESA mounts that connect to your monitor also have some adjustments and securing screws to the top and bottom of each bracket. Nitro Concepts does not offer a triple version of this stand. For single-screen use, given the frame wraps around the cockpit, it will be fine for our needs and can also be used with cockpits from other manufacturers, provided the chassis width fits between the monitor stand legs.

Time then to move somewhere with a bit more room so I can show this all set up and get testing!

Installation, Testing, Finished Product, and Final Thoughts

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There we have it then, our completed Nitro Concepts E-Racer rig and monitor mount!

Having moved everything into my living room and making a bit of space, it was time to add the seat, Fanatec GT DD Pro wheel and pedal set, along with a monitor, ready to hook up a system for testing.

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Installing the seat and side mounts meant adding four screws to hold the bracket rails to the frame, and then two on each side of the bucket seat. I didn't picture this earlier, so here is the final result. As you can see, the final product includes angle adjustments for the seat, and plenty of clearance underneath for maybe hiding away extras, or adding something like a haptic kit.

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The installation of the wheel and monitor didn't throw up any compatibility issues with the E-Racer. The wheel base, mounted to the deck, I found to be in a good position with the angle adjustment available, while the pedals sat well on the tray, with bolts attaching easily through the slots. If I want to change the pedal angle, then the two thumbwheels are quick and easy to use to make adjustments. Our Fanatec pedals do fill out the tray, so larger pedal sets may overhang the edges of the tray.

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I did have to use the included metal square washers for the rear of the monitor arms, as the holes in the brackets were too large, but that was it.

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Time then to see how it performs, the Fanatec GT DD Pro got bolted on with the standard 5Nm power brick, with Assetto Corsa providing my track and car selection. After a week or so, and plenty of races, I have a conclusion on this chassis. Let's start with the good.

As a beginner, coming into sim racing with a lower-end wheel or an entry-level direct drive unit, then, yes, it's a perfectly good place to start. It can get you up racing quite quickly, with minimal fuss. The Nitro Concepts E-Racer is certainly more suited to a casual racer, someone who doesn't spend hours each day racing and prefers a few laps on a weekend. I'm not saying you can't race competitively on this chassis; I'm saying that the people who are going that deep into the rabbit hole will simply look elsewhere.

Depending on how tall you are, I found the E-Racer to offer a good amount of adjustment, with the seat moved back, and with room to move the pedal tray forward some more, this chassis should be able to accommodate the shortest, or even the tallest racer, with the ability to move the wheel deck forwards, or backwards as required too. You can see above that I have adjusted where the monitor stand uprights attach. I have moved these to the furthest point towards the seat, so that the monitor tucks up nicely to the wheel base. The whole build process was fun; it's not complex either, so if you want to get your kids involved in building this, then go for it. Everything also seems quite well-made, and the packaging kept everything safe, too.

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While there are a lot of good points, depending on what you are looking for, the E-Racer may not be for you. In terms of expandability, DIY solutions and add-ons, while some will be possible, using a curved aluminium profile for the rig construction may hinder your options. Nitro Concepts also only lists an add-on gear shift mount, so no keyboard tray, side shelf mount, or anything like that is available from them.

During testing, I did notice some flex within the pedal tray if I really hit things hard. The Fanatec GT DD Pro doesn't include a load cell kit, and it is fairly entry-level pedals, so I wasn't pushing the chassis to its limit, but I do think it would struggle with more substantial pedal sets. My thoughts are the same on the wheel deck and chassis overall. While it's strong enough here, I would perhaps look for something a little more robust if I owned a wheel with significantly more force feedback ability. It's the same with how the uprights mount. I do like to see a stronger bond between this and the base frame, and I am sure the story would be the same, if not worse, if I had used the angled profile mounts here instead. Maybe Nitro Concepts should remove the angle plates from the kit and add four 40x40 corner brackets so that the uprights can be attached to the base a little better.

Split into the three components I have been testing, the E-Racer chassis itself is more than capable when it knows its audience, and you know where your expectations should be. The R300 seat is nice, firm, and comfy, and I wouldn't have an issue if my backside was planted in this for a two-hour race. Having removable and washable covers is also a nice inclusion. The single monitor stand is also good, but it just lacks a little in terms of height adjustment for larger monitors. During testing, I used a 27-inch monitor, so a 32-inch monitor might struggle to sit above a wheel base.

Overall, this puts this chassis into the entry-level category for me. It isn't for a sim racer with years of experience, or someone wanting to build a fully enclosed system with triple screens, ambient lighting, a roof, and so on. This is simply a chassis for beginners who consciously know that they may be replacing this, maybe in six months or a year down the line, as they buy into the hobby more. It is certainly suitable for the more casual racer, or family setup, getting the kids involved for some fun, while not taking it too seriously. Sat with an entry-level direct drive, or even a belt or gear-driven entry-level wheel, though, it certainly ticks all the boxes in terms of performance.

On pricing, though, things really do open up, purely because there are so many entry-level frames about. At $884, there are certainly other options to look at, for example, the Trak Racer TR80S, with a GT Pro seat, and an entry-level monitor mount comes in at $881 plus shipping. This also uses a 40x80mm profile, so it is a close competitor, and I know which I would choose out of the two. While the Nitro Concepts E-Racer isn't a bad frame at all, other brands offer more within the ecosystem for a specific frame, and my advice would simply be to take a look at what you need from a chassis in the long term and choose accordingly. It may well be that the E-Racer fits your needs perfectly, and if it does, then it is certainly worth consideration.