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Antec Dark Fleet DF500 RGB Mid-Tower Chassis Review (Page 4)

By Chad Sebring on Aug 31, 2018 10:00 am CDT - 2 mins, 47 secs reading time for this page
Rating: 89%Manufacturer: Antec

Inside the DF500 RGB


A firm grip and a powerful pull at the bottom of the bezel will allow it to come off of the chassis. The front I/O wires stay with the chassis, and we see the trio of 120mm RGB LED fans down the front. We also noticed that the front window is tinted, but in an amber color, which does not match the tempered glass panel's tint.


The chassis is broken up into two sections on the inside. There is the lower section for the HDDs and the PSU, which is kept hidden behind the PSU cover. The top is wide open and appears to have what many will want from a mid-tower chassis.


The front I/O wires enter the interior, then quickly exit again at the top of the motherboard tray, and on that section of the tray, we can also see a pair of locations to mount 2.5" drives to it. The three fans have no part number, as the sticker on the back of the hub only says Antec on them.


If you remove the dust cover from the top of the DF500 RGB, you gain access to mounting 120mm or 140mm fans. Had Antec increased the height only three to five millimeters, compatibility with AIOs would be found here, and not just in the front of the chassis.


The motherboard tray has six opening to run the wires through, and the large CPU cooler access hole can also be used for cables to a Mini-ITX motherboard. What is lacking are places to tie wires to, with only three down the middle, and a few to the right side of the motherboard tray.


There is not much to talk about with the inside of the chassis, looking at the back. There is no fan installed here, but we do see that six of the expansion slot covers are knock-outs; only the top one is replaceable.


Behind the motherboard tray, we find that there is a mess of wires we need to deal with, off to the right of the RGB hub for the fans. To the right, below the access hole, is a rack for a pair of 2.5" drives.


The HDD cage has a pair of plastic trays in it, and using screws, holds 3.5" drives into them. Both trays have holes in them to allow a 2.5" drive to be mounted in them as well, and by removing the four screws below the chassis, the cage can be eliminated.


The PSU will go in here and rest on the four dense foam pads. The floor of the chassis has wide open rectangular holes, but the fine mesh below it will help to stop dust from entering it. If the PSU of choice is longer, the HDD cage can be slid forward for more room, with the realization you may block access for an AIO in the front.


What you need to connect to the motherboard is what you see in this image. There is a native USB 3.0 connector, the LED and switch cables, and the HD Audio connector on the left. To the right are the RGB hub connections, and there is a 4-pin Molex connection to power the hub.

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Chad Sebring


Jumping into computers for just the aspect of gaming is how it all started for me. After a solid year of gaming, I caught the overclocking bug. With overclocking comes the need for better cooling, and I have had both air and water setups to tinker with. With a few years of abusing computer parts, I looked for something new. I then decided to take my chances and try to get a review job with a online site. As an avid overclocker, I am always looking for the next leg up in RAM, cooling, as well as peripherals technology.

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