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IN WIN S-Frame Open-Air Chassis Review

By: Chad Sebring | Open Air Cases in Cases, Cooling & PSU | Posted: Jul 28, 2014 2:06 pm
TweakTown Rating: 81%Manufacturer: IN WIN

Inside the S-Frame




With the glass panels now removed for a better view, we are back at the front end of the chassis, looking where optical bays would typically be. However, these are pre-drilled trays for up to four storage devices.




With no manual, and the online guide not offering much at all, we can only assume these six holes drilled into the chassis are to be used for pump or reservoir mounting. It could be used for just about anything really, but that is our guess as to its intentions.




Looking back up at the top isn't much different than looking down upon it, with the exception of the notches and drilled holes used to support expansion cards, in conjunction with the slots milled into the motherboard tray.




The actual motherboard tray is completely flat, and offers no CPU cooler access hole, but comes with brass inset nuts secured in the aluminum to mount the standoffs, or some of the clips for wiring. The bottom is cut away to act as a pathway to pass cables all the way from the left, to the right of the motherboard.




Where the floor would be in a conventional chassis design, in the S-Frame, things are completely open to allow the intake of cooler air, helping convection do its magic inside. There is a fan or radiator support plate in this design that is drilled correctly for custom water cooling, but it may play up with AIO alignment.




Where we would normally see expansion slots and a fan, the S-Frame offers an expanse of that blue aluminum. On the panel there is a plaque, holes for either storage or more water cooling mounting, and a large cutout for wires to pass into the chassis from the PSU.




When you get the S-Frame retail, this plaque will be exactly the same, but where ours has "TweakTown" carved into the plate, you will have an actual serial number like "005/500."




Looking at the back of the motherboard tray, we can see the drive stack off to the left, and the chassis wiring is even laid into the channel cut along the bottom. So, that leaves the right side area for the PSU mounting.




The four aluminum drive trays are kept in place with the spring load screws on the left. It also uses a pin system at the far end of the tray for support, but they do rest on the aluminum frame for additional support on the right side, and each tray is drilled for 2.5" or 3.5" drives.




There is a PSU support bracket that should be removed to easily install the PSU to it. Like the drive trays, the bracket has two spring loaded screws at the back to take the full weight of the PSU you want to install.




It is easy to see that there is plenty of cable for the front panel lights and buttons, and even the HD audio cable has plenty of length. However, the USB 3.0 leads are much shorter, and if the header is not on the side of the motherboard, this may cause issues.

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