The Build and Finished Product
Orienting the motherboard tray so that the hardware looked a bit better, I figured this was a good time to show this off before I installed it and started to cover this with wires and shadows. As I mentioned, the Z68MA-D2H-B3 GIGABYTE gave me for testing with a full sized tower cooler on top just to test the limitations of the chassis while I'm in here.
I installed SilverStone's own ST75F-G PSU which is 180mm, the absolute maximum that will fit inside the TJ08-E, and you will soon see why I stressed the 160mm recommendation rather than the absolute maximum. That 160mm suggestion is a point not to take lightly, it took a few waves of the magic wand and a few four letter words to get my system wired.
You can see that once the optical drive is in, and yes, this is a shorter model DVD drive, I thought I had plenty of room to make all the connections as I grabbed into the tub for the short cable kit wires to get things powered up.
They were not over stating that 160mm at all. It took me two or three attempts at stacking the modular cables so that they would both clip into the PSU and bend the way I needed them to, but with the GPU power leads being so thick and the lack of room with my bold move to go ahead with a 180mm PSU jumped up and bit me at every turn. I was on a mission, and I wasn't taking no for an answer - the power supply matched the case; it had to go in there!
Those that follow my reviews know by now that if it's removable and I don't need it, it stays removed for the build. While I can appreciate the drive system and its modularity, I am much fonder of the fact that it's gone. With no cages to disturb the airflow, I am maximizing what cooling is offered in this chassis. That large 180mm Air Penetrator now has free reign to deliver both the GPU up top and the CPU at the bottom with everything it has to provide!
With the motherboard tray back in the chassis, I was able to simply lay the case on its back, slide the pad up to the cooler and hold it in place while I tightened the screw under the chassis to lock this into place.
Once the fan is connected to a power source, there are still options. Hopefully you have a header that you can deliver a constant 12V through, because then you can use this switch to power the fan in low or hi modes. If you don't want to mess with the switch, you can always use the BIOS to control the fan with the heat inside the chassis. Since there are now Molex power adapters, out of the box, those are the choices.
PRICING: You can find products similar to this one for sale below.
United States: Find other tech and computer products like this over at Amazon's website.
United Kingdom: Find other tech and computer products like this over at Amazon UK's website.
Canada: Find other tech and computer products like this over at Amazon Canada's website.
Recommended for You
- We at TweakTown openly invite the companies who provide us with review samples / who are mentioned or discussed to express their opinion of our content. If any company representative wishes to respond, we will publish the response here.
Latest News Posts
- Intel CPU engineer leaves after 20 years
- Digital made up 80% of Ubisoft's first quarter sales
- Console gamers to spend more on DLC than games in 2017
- GTA Online earned $1.09 billion, says analyst firm
- Microsoft earned $90 billion last fiscal year
- How to upgrade the BIOS to GA-UD23-B3?
- Baby Driver Movie Review
- Asus laptop BIOS does not recognize UBCD-post page is grayed out - can't post
- Bloody AL90 Blazing Laser Gaming Mouse Review
- Cryptocurrency mining deflates, used GPUs hit eBay
- BIOSTAR introduces the world's first 8-slot PCI-e mining motherboard with the TB250-BTC+
- HyperX unveils HyperX Alloy Elite and TKL HyperX Alloy FPS Pro mechanical gaming keyboards
- Toshiba Memory Corporation develops world's first 3D flash memory with TSV technology
- ADATA releases XPG GAMMIX line with S10 PCIe Gen3x4 NVMe 1.2 SSD and D10 DDR4