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Lian Li Lancool II Mid-Tower Chassis Review (Page 4)

Shannon Robb | Nov 13, 2019 at 05:00 am CST - 4 mins, 49 secs reading time for this page
Rating: 96%Manufacturer: Lian LiModel: Lancool II

Inside the Lancool II

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The front panel pulls off quickly enough, but I will note that it came free easier pulling from the dip in the top front rather than the bottom. The nice part of the Lancool II is the usage of the spring pins for connecting the front panel lighting. This means the panel can be removed from the case without having to unplug anything at all. Here you can also see the two separate dust filters in the front panel cutouts. The one thing I can say is not perfect here is there are gaps at the top and bottom where the filter does not completely seal off the inlet and, therefore, can be bypassed. But overall, as the filter is in the fans' direct airflow path, it should do a decent enough job, until the filter clogs if you don't stay on top of it.

The fan, which we see pre-installed, is actually on a removable and adjustable tray, which we will look at shortly.

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Here we grabbed a close up snap of how the front panel ARGB strips connect to the main chassis. These are spring-loaded pins that contact the pads on the front panel PCB. This allows full removal of the front panel with no wires to disconnect or tether the panel to the chassis. As you can see, the plug could support a four-pin RGB 5050 style connection if needed, but I'm glad they went with ARGB as it provides a smooth color flow.

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Opening up the main side panel of the Lancool II is a multi-step process. First, you must flip down the lower metal cover, which then gives you a lip to pull open the main glass panel as it rests flush with both panels closed. The panels are secured with powerful magnets, and that's why you need the lip to open the glass; otherwise, that thing is on pretty solid. You can see the round magnets on the front of the chassis frame. The glass panel can be lifted off of the hinge pins to ease the build while the glass panel is moved out of the way. In the main chamber, we get a look at the vast open expanse and the motherboard tray with the massive CPU cutout. The adjustable cable management vertical bar is to the right of the motherboard tray area. This bar allows the cables to pass through without having to worry about a specific pass-through location with grommets.

For the underside, we can see the triple tray HDD cage, which can support up to three 3.5" drives or 2.5" drives depending on your needs. There is also a viewable area of where the PSU will reside, although it will not be visible at all when the panels are closed.

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Here we get a backside look at the interior of the mounting tray for the front cooling fans and potential radiators. There are several small pass-through holes next to this front area, which you can use to pass the fan cables through for a cleaner cable-free build.

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Here we removed the front tray to show you how the adjustable mounting bracket works. The front mounting bracket is secured along the upper edge with one screw on each side. The tray can then pivot out of the chassis with the bottom being secured by a peg sliding into a groove in the chassis. This peg is very important as it is how we can adjust the mounting depth of the bracket.

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Here are the slots we mentioned previously. The slot which the bracket is placed in by default is the shorter forward-mounted slot. If you opt to move the fans or radiators more inboard to the chassis chamber, you can remove the bracket and insert the peg into the deeper slots. This will move the bracket back and allow for more space on the area between the tray and the front panel so that you can secure a radiator outside of the chassis bracket without hitting the front panel. One thing to note is that there is a removable plate on the PSU shroud, which will need to be removed to allow the bracket to install in the further inboard location. This plate will also allow more room for thicker radiators, keep in mind that you may need to adjust the lower HDD cages to accommodate.

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Here we have the top of the Lancool II, and the mounting we discussed previously is uncovered. With the magnetic filter removed, we find that the Lancool II has several mounting points for fans and/or radiators. There is central mounting, which allows a 120mm radiator to attach at the center of the chassis, or you can offset toward the main panel. Offsetting the radiator away from the motherboard and toward the glass panel gives more room for motherboard components and RAM clearance. We have seen several cases in the recent past where I lambasted the manufacturer for their lack of care in regards to RAM fitment while claiming to fit a top mount radiator. The Lancool II, with the outboard mounting, runs no risk of my harsh critique in this regard.

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The PSU shroud or mid-plate, as some may consider it runs the length from front to rear. The majority of the plate is slotted with ventilation, as you can install fans here as well. Towards the front edge, you will see a plate that can be removed to give more clearance for thicker radiators, which you may opt to place inside the chassis. Moving toward the motherboard tray area, we find two large openings for cable pass-through and likely the ideal place for GPU cables as well.

Last updated: Nov 21, 2019 at 10:57 am CST

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Shannon Robb


Shannon started his PC journey around the age of six in 1989. Now till present day, he has established himself in the overclocking world, spending many years pushing the limits of hardware on LN2. Shannon has worked with design and R&D on various components, including PC systems and chassis, to optimize the layout and performance for enthusiasts.

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