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Corsair IRONCLAW RGB WIRELESS Gaming Mouse Review (Page 4)

By Chad Sebring | Sep 12, 2019 11:21 am CDT
Rating: 99%Manufacturer: CorsairModel: CH-9317011-NA



Disassembly takes a bit of work, and there are five sections to the mouse, although we took this image still frustrated from not getting the left side free just yet. In the top half, all the buttons and their accompanying framework is housed, but all of the switches and other goodies are contained in the lower half.


We removed the uppermost PCB to make things easier to see as well as easier to explain. The scroll switch is made by Kailh, as are all four of the white switches in black housings. These four switches back the DPI and profile buttons, they are soft where pressure is concerned, and there is a light click heard when actuated. The blue pad style switch seen here is under the Option Button, it is much stiffer than the others, and the report is a hollow-sounding clunk. The LED you see there, that is what backs the logo on the heel of the Ironclaw.


Taking a few deep breaths and looking at it another way, we were able to remove the left side of the Ironclaw, giving us access to the PCB behind it. On the left edge are the LED s that back the multi-purpose lights on the left near the front of the mouse. The metal pad switches in the middle and to the right are what the forward and back page side buttons use. The feel is soft, like a rubber dome switch, and there is a plastic "thunk" noise heard when actuated, not a traditional switch click you are used to.


The top PCB out of the way, we can look deeper into the mouse, and are cable now of reading the paint on the side of the Omron switch. The blue switches are indeed the D2FC-F-K(50M) variety. With these switches in play, the actuation force seems a bit softer, but the defined, crisp click heard is satisfying.


The next thing we run across is the MCU, and identifying this chip is tough as the paint does obscure the model. Our best guess is that this is the Nordic nRF52840, which is an ARM Cortex-M4 CPU which is 32-bit. This processor not only handles the routine communications, but it is built explicitly for 2.4GHz wireless and Bluetooth. It is also where any of your profiles and settings will be stored, or at least the three profiles worth; the rest will need to be stored on the PC.


The choice of sensor is not shocking, as it seems the market has moved away from laser sensors in favor of PixArt optical solutions. In this instance, we are dealing with the PMW3391, which has a range of 100 to 18,000 DPI in 1 DPI increments. Out of the box, the sensor is smooth and accurate, and with iCUE involved and calibration down, it only gets better!


Many of the wireless mice we have seen in the past use dry cell batteries you can get off the shelf, or lately, many have moved to Li-Ion, but this time we see a Li-Po used instead. Offering 3.7V of power to drive the Ironclaw with 1000 mAh, it reminds us a lot of servo and accessory batteries for the R/C industry. All the same, it has enough grunt to offer up to 16 hours wirelessly with full RGB goodness, or 30 hours of Bluetooth use, again with the RGB LEDs at full blaze. If you want to extend that time, turn the lighting off, and you can get 24 hours on SLIPSTREAM and possibly 50 hours with Bluetooth.


As expected, the switch under the right button of the mouse is also made by Omron. In case you missed it before, this is a fifty-million click blue version.


Once back together, we flipped the switch to 2.4GHz mode and took in the default mode of the RGB LEDs. From the front of the mouse, you can see the "headlights" of the Ironclaw in full glow. At the same time, from this angle, and while looking down over the mouse, we can see the light around and inside of the center section of the scroll wheel.


From the back, most of what you will see is the logo cycling through colors, but that depends on if you opted for another mode or static color option in the software. As you can see the multi-purpose LEDs on the left do not coincide with the color of the other zones. It is the battery charge indicator, it changes when pairing is attempted and completed, it can show which profile is active, and currently, the three cyan lights mean we have selected the highest set DPI setting.

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Chad Sebring


Jumping into computers for just the aspect of gaming is how it all started for me. After a solid year of gaming, I caught the overclocking bug. With overclocking comes the need for better cooling, and I have had both air and water setups to tinker with. With a few years of abusing computer parts, I looked for something new. I then decided to take my chances and try to get a review job with a online site. As an avid overclocker, I am always looking for the next leg up in RAM, cooling, as well as peripherals technology.

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