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be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 Full-Tower Chassis Review (Page 7)

By Shannon Robb from Jul 1, 2019 @ 10:00 CDT
TweakTown Rating: 98%Manufacturer: be quiet!

Case Build & Finished Product

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The front of the Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 is indistinguishable from the first time we showed it as a built rig looks the same when you have a solid panel out front. Dare I say; the Dark Base Pro is the mullet of cases; it's business up front and a party out back?

Ok, maybe that was funnier in my head, and well mullets are not really cool in today's age, and this chassis is definitely sleek. Hell with it, I'm leaving that one in as it made me smile to find a case I can make this joke about finally. That is of course pending the Editor doesn't chop it out.

Either way, the styling of the Dark Base Pro 900 is undoubtedly docile enough it could fit well in any environment from an office to HTPC or a gaming rig. However, with the inclusions of LEDs and things of the sort, those would likely be disabled in an office environment. Also, to be used in a home theatre environment would be tantamount to picking up the groceries in a Bugatti Chiron. It can do the job, but it's going to be massively out of place.

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Now we get to some explaining and the absolute hell that my lack of realization caused. The motherboard, GPU and everything went in without an issue, pulled the shroud and installed PSU. Started routing all cables and got most of the system all wired up. I know from years of experience that many times a top mounted AIO will cover the EPS 8-pin, so I ran all of this and had everything mounted up.

Next comes the AIO a Corsair H100i which subsequently failed even to come close to fitting. This lead to an exhaustive search, discussion with a good friend chad who previously was writing these reviews. Needless and embarrassingly to admit, there was a 2-hour journey of mental anguish as I cursed everything about the build until I realized I should be cursing myself. I'm the type of dude who builds first in most cases and reads the manual after I break something (Joking, kind of).

I finally found the second part of the manual showing that the motherboard can adjust upwards and downwards, not just inversion. So once I made the magical movement of one separator plate downward, as you can see above the AIO went in without issues. Well, almost without problems as the ole ego was bruised a bit. With the personal mea culpa out of the way, let's move forward.

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Here we see the rear section post-build. If you look closely, you can see what I was discussing previously with the hexagonal mesh single piece now above the motherboard area whereas two of them were at the lower previously. Everything else looks relatively standard with the exception that the PSU is hidden behind the pass-through section.

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Here we see the cable management. Cable management is a massive pain to me, but also a point of pride when you can do it well. Here I would have liked to do better, but the RGB/fan control PCB had so many wires I opted to split groups to ensure everything looked ok once complete.

I did go through about eight cable ties before I was happy swapping cables back and forth. I think overall for a reasonably mainstream rig this went together quite well, now imagine with multi GPU cabling and other internal devices this could require some creative wiring to be effective. The cable tie points, as I mentioned before, were more than enough to satisfy the needs of our build, and some were even left unused.

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Here we get our first shot of the fully built system with the glass panel installed. The light tint on the panel allows for us to see the hardware but still shrouds it a bit due to lack of internal illumination.

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Here we see the full system but now powered on. As you can see the included LED strips really liven up the interior and allows a much more vivid view of the internals. With a press of the front button, you can swap between white, red, green, blue, orange, purple, and color cycle all with breathing modes for each color option.

Pressing the front I/O LED button for 3 seconds switches into sync mode which allows the internal 4-pin cable connected to the motherboard or other LED controller to take charge. This will enable the RGB LEDs to sync with your motherboard color or at least somewhat as the LEDs are not ARGB so they can only display a single color across all connected strips at a single time.

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