Inside the P7-C1 Pro
It is better to pull the top panel first, but the front bezel is removable, just be mindful of the LED cable that connects it to the chassis. The holes in the steel mesh don't impede on airflow much, but it is backed with a clipped in dust filter.
Behind the bezel and wall of steel, we find this trio of 120mm fans hanging here. Each uses a 3-pin connector for power, but also have a 4-pin connection for LED control. The frames are black with rubber pads in the corners, and with clear blades, it helps to carry the LED lights in the hubs outward.
The cover over the top of the P7-C1 Pro is removable, but the front I/O panels is wired through the top of the chassis. While the top will not go far, it does clear access to the 120mm optional fan mounting locations.
Three holes at the top of the motherboard tray and a slot down the right side allow for the passing of wires to the front. With a large access hole, fourteen wire tie points, the motherboard tray is ready and able to make this open area stay as open looking as possible.
The PSU cover is a touch close to the front to allow for a radiator to slide past it and is why only 240mm or 280mm radiators can be used there. There are four screws to remove the HDD cage, a large hole for wires to go through, and a pair of SSD mounting trays on the top. The left side is stylized, and we have seen this design before.
Hanging inside of the back of the case, we find the all black 120mm exhaust fan, with a long lead to connect it, and a 3-pin connection on the end of it. The top slot cover is replaceable, but the following six are break-out style and are screwed in externally.
Looking into the right side of the chassis, we see that the wiring has been bundled on the left, and partially block the view of the other two 2.5" drive trays. We see two boxes of goodies in the HDD cage, and to the right is the manual for the P7-C1 Pro.
The HDD cage trays are drilled for 2.5" drives as well as for 3.5" drives. Drive mounting sends screws through grommets to isolate vibrations, while the smaller drives screw directly to the plastic. There is also the option to remove this, by removing the four screws from the top of the PSU shroud.
There is honeycomb mesh on the floor; dense foam pads used to support, and to install the PSU long term, you insert screws through the back, which you need to provide.
The cables are long enough but do not leave much extra to aid in getting the top panel out of your way later. There is the 4-pin RGB LED connection from one of the fans on the left, and the longest leads are the USB 3.0 and HD Audio cables. To the right of those, we run into the power, reset, HDD activity and power LED wires, with the USB 2.0 lead off to the far right.
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