Installation and Finished Product
The first thing we are shown to do is to push the studs through the correct set of holes in the backplate. Something we quickly realized, however, there is not a head on the other side of the stud, and there is not a flat spot under the head to lock into the plate either. This means we can only get the hardware finger tight.
Once that is done, you are then told to slide the backplate and studs through the motherboard. For Intel users, be mindful of the orientation, so that the holes in the backplate line up with the socket screws.
The manual then tells us to slide the red cardboard washers over the studs before locking the studs in place. We would have loved to, but the washers were not the right diameter to fit over the studs. We ended up just snipping through the washers to allow all of them to open up just enough to get over the studs.
All that is left when mounting the hardware in getting ready to set the block is to send the taller nuts down each stud. We do wish the studs had a locking mechanism, as we were not able to get these very tight at all.
After applying paste, cleaning the cold plate, and lying it onto the CPU, we sent the top nuts downs as well as possible. We did notice here that everything tightens only so far before you feel the studs spinning.
The head unit is tall enough to be seen over the top of standard height DDR4, but there isn't much of that in the wild. With the taller heat spreaders such as what we have, the head unit is nearly flush in height with them.
Looking at everything from the top of the motherboard we find very little white head unit sticking up past the fancy motherboard heat sink. The only question you have left to decide is which location, within roughly 10" of the head unit, you are going to mount the radiator.
We decided to go to the top of the chassis to fit the radiator. One factor in this call is that we could hear coolant moving around the unit as we were taking pictures, which means there is quite a bit of air in with the coolant, so we wanted to use the radiator as a trap for it. Outside of that, it fits nicely and keeps the tubing straight and cleanly out of the way.
Once the system is fired up and the Icekimo 120W comes to life, we guessed right, and all of the cutouts found in the cover plate are backlit. The color is white to match the rest of the cooler, and even the ID logo glows.
At the other end of the AIO, we find the fan has LEDs which also match. There are four LEDs in the hub, which put off a sufficient amount of light, but is nowhere near as bright as fans with LEDs on the frame.
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- Page 1 [Introduction, Specifications, and Pricing]
- Page 2 [Packaging]
- Page 3 [ID-Cooling Icekimo 120W Liquid CPU Cooler]
- Page 4 [Accessories and Documentation]
- Page 5 [Installation and Finished Product]
- Page 6 [Test System Setup, Thermal Tests, and Noise Results]
- Page 7 [Final Thoughts]
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