Installation and Finished Product
First thing is first. Since the blue in the CPU block does not match our test system, we started off by using a fine, flat-tipped screw driver to get under the heads of the four pins we removed by pulling them straight out of the block.
It would seem reasonable that the cover plate would simply fall away once the pins come out, but in reality, there is a bit of a vacuum between the plates, and we used that same screwdriver to lift a corner and get the black painted clear cover out.
All we have to do now, with the blue insert now out of the way, is place in the red insert, and reverse the steps we already took to get everything securely back on the top of the block.
That's much better. Now our H220-X matches the chassis, as well as the black and red theme of the test system we run.
There are tiny pads on the reverse of this back plate, and you will need to peel the cover off of them to allow this plate to stick to the board and hold it in place. Orientation of the plate is restricted, and will only go on in one way, as only one side is cut to allow for the socket bolts.
Adding some thermal paste and screwing the block down is simple enough. For our installation, we mimic a standard chassis, using the top of the chassis as the exhaust, and reorienting the fans to aid in this process. In this image, we are all connected and running. The photo lights washed out the reservoir LED, but the water block is glowing red.
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