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Deepcool Steam Castle B Micro-ATX Chassis Review (Page 6)

By Chad Sebring from Aug 13, 2014 @ 17:06 CDT
TweakTown Rating: 90%Manufacturer: Deepcool

Case Build and Finished Product


The optical bay has a break-out plate that needs removed if you plan to use it, and the bay cover on the bezel is just clipped into place. There is plenty of ventilation in the bezel, as well as in the front of the chassis, to afford very good ventilation inside of the Steam Castle.


Again, the PSU with flat cables saves the day. We were able to run PSU wiring where other leads would not have fit; including the power to the GPU running next to the tray, where any other PSU would require you to find an alternate route. We can also see that our longer HD7950 has plenty of room to spare.


Around back, we found nothing out of the ordinary. The card is held in securely, the dust shield snapped right in, and there were no issues with getting the PSU mounted either.


From the right, we can see there is plenty of room for tower CPU coolers in this design. Of course, to simplify things even further, there is always the option for a custom kit or AIO hanging from the top.


We do wish that the front I/O panel had stayed on the chassis, and was not integrated into the panel. As this image shows, there are still quite a few connections that will end up pretty much locking this panel to the chassis, which will hinder even basic maintenance.


With the Steam Castle B now all back together, from this angle, we do get a great view of the PSU, the edge of the motherboard, and the majority of the video card. However, we would have preferred that the window be on the right side, as it affords a better view, and would make the placement of the I/O panel seem more logical. It just seems odd to have a window on one side facing outward, and then have connectivity against a wall.


Upon the initial powering of the Steam Castle B, we found that only the blue LED from the power LED was glowing, and this was accompanied by the occasional flicker of the HDD activity blue LED just below it. At this point, we did have to get closer than a foot from the chassis to hear it, and the meter was showing just 28dB at a foot away.


It wasn't until we gave the dial at the top of the I/O panel a little twist to the right that we saw anything from the LEDs on top. Things start out dimly lit, and you can keep spinning the dial until you achieve their maximum brightness, as is shown in this image. This does make us wish the mesh and grills on the side matched this LED theme though.

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