Inside the PC-Q36
After removing the top acrylic panel, both sides of the chassis will easily slide upwards to be removed. On the inside of both side panels, we found Lian Li used those plastic nubs we saw outside to attach the dust filters to the inside of both panels.
With the top and sides removed, the floor does flex a bit, and it sags in the center. With good access to see the hardware and wiring tucked under the motherboard tray, when it comes to the build process, there is so much more to be seen.
Below the window on the front panel, there is a thumbscrew to lock the panel and the storage drive cage into the chassis. By removing another thumbscrew on the floor, the storage rack and the front bezel can be completely removed, the latter of which takes the I/O wiring along with it.
Once that storage rack is removed, and four more screws are removed from a plate it sits on to get it out of the way, we finally get a view of the slim optical bay that is still screwed to the floor. Of course, this is also removable to make mounting that drive much simpler.
Behind the slim optical bay, and still on the floor of the chassis, we find two support rails with rubber pads on them to mount the PSU on. The rails are removable, but now you can just slide a PSU in.
The motherboard tray comes with standoffs already installed, and has a huge access hole for back plates, or m-SATA cards. Also, this plate has two screws to the right, and by removing those, along with another pair of screws from the outside rear of the chassis, you will be able to pull the motherboard tray out completely.
Looking inside of the rear panel, we see the I/O area is well placed, and with that 120mm fan there, it will evacuate most of the CPU heat in a hurry. This fan offers enough wire to get anywhere in the chassis, and requires a three-pin header for power.
Before we slid the front panel out of the chassis, we made sure to get a good view of the wiring. They have bound up some of the excess wiring already so that the front panel connections, the native USB 3.0, and the HD Audio connections, should get where they need to be as-is. However, there are a few additional inches of cabling for each that is available for those long runs when needed.
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