Case Build and Finished Product
Since all of the AIO units we had on hand were dual radiator models, we went with something very low profile for simplicity, but there is 90mm of room for much better cooling choices. Since we have most of the main things all ready to go at this point, we just need to do some pre-wiring and make sure nothing gets in the way.
We decided to go with our PSU being installed fan up. This is a handy option for those using air cooling so that the fans do not compete for air, yet if an AIO is used, the PSU could be flipped to remove the heat produced from the motherboard.
Since we can, we removed all of the drive bays in our build and for this image of the plastic clip locking into both the SSD and the steel tray mounted on top of the optional AIO plate. It works the same on the standard plate as well, but there are two locations on that plate rather than just this one.
With a chassis such as this, a modular PSU is a must. It can be done with a standard PSU, but the reality is that it will frustrate you and be very messy inside when done. Of course, with no window, who cares, right? You should because it will impede airflow greatly with such small fans cooling this chassis.
At this stage, we added the PSU bracket back into the chassis and made all of the connections. Then, we added in the AIO plate that is currently only holding an SSD, but with just a couple of wires to move, the front of the chassis is now completely open to hang a fan and radiator there.
Taking the tour around the finished chassis, since we did not use any optical drives or bay devices, we just leave the magnetic front panel shut and enjoy the sleek sexiness of the brushed aluminum. We did try to remove the covers and install a drive into the rack, and we found no issues with fit or access.
You have to look closely, but the HIS IceQ sticker from the video card is visible through the mesh, and there is even a bit of that GIGABYTE blue from the other PCI slots visible. Even without a window, the Urban SD1 is still able to offer some form of a view inside.
Not an issue really, but something to keep in mind is that without the motherboard tray and the PSU rack, the back of the chassis is out of square, so when putting the components back into the chassis, you do have to flex the sides a bit to align the screws. As for the rest, the card went in easily, and so did the dust shield.
On the right side of the chassis, you really have to get close to view what is inside, mainly due to the video card blocking the light from the other side, but again, this is intended for air flow and not viewing pleasure, but it is nice that it offers both.
We end the images with this shot of the Urban SD1 before we added any power. We found with this build that the CMOS battery in our Micro-ATX motherboard bit the dust. So while it powered up and we were able to hear the fans surprisingly only delivering 38 dB of noise into the room, we had to take this out of the booth to reset the BIOS and get the blue LED bar at the top functioning when the system is powered as well as catching a glimpse of the red LED at the bottom blinking as the SSD is accessed.
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- Page 1 [Introduction, Specifications and Pricing]
- Page 2 [Packaging]
- Page 3 [Thermaltake Urban SD1 Micro- Chassis]
- Page 4 [Inside the Urban SD1]
- Page 5 [Accessories and Documentation]
- Page 6 [Case Build and Finished Product]
- Page 7 [Final Thoughts]
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