Disassembly and Finished Product

The first thing I wanted to do was to remove a few of the key caps and see what switches are actually on the steel plate in this Trigger. They are in fact the Cherry MX Green switches as promised and are individually LED lit, but it was at this point I realized I would have liked an included key puller.

Removing six screws from the back of the Trigger you can separate the top from the bottom of the two piece enclosure. What are left in the middle are the PCB, plate, and the switches.

The steel plate that stabilizes the switches as no not allow for flex when the PCB would have to take the pressure is this eight inch steel plate that is rounded over for strength on the front and back edges, then painted black to match the rest of the keyboard.

The USB connectivity PCB is separate from the main PCB and with the quick removal of the cable you can go ahead and clean the switches if you should accidentally spill something.

On the back of the PCB there is some very well done solder work to all of the switches and LEDs. I was looking around for some numbers to help pin down the OEM, but there are only CM numbers painted on the PCB.

Once I got the Trigger all back in one piece I added in the braided cable and powered up the lighting modes. Now you can use the Trigger without any backlighting, but where is the fun in that? Here is one of the modes that illuminate the logo, Macro keys, WASD, and the arrow keys in red.

The other mode of LED lighting is full on red where every key on the keyboard is lit. You do have the option to limit or increase the amount of light in five steps for each mode as well. So if the lighting is too intense you can tone it down, or turn it up to full and easily see the Trigger in complete darkness.