Inside the Apogee Drive II
First I wanted to just change out the LED plate, not because I don't like red, I just like blue better. At this point you have to remove the four tiny screws and the metal plate with the logo cut into it will lift out of the way.
Once the metal plate is out of the way you can now see the LED pushed into the top of the red plastic block. All I do now is lift the red out and install the LED into the hole in the blue block, and then replace the metal plate.
And here you have a blue version of the Apogee Drive II. I didn't go with the green because I don't like it as much personally, but the process is exactly the same.
Since the POM pieces on the side are adjustable, I thought ahead and removed one to set up an angle that will allow this to point toward the GPU in the loop. What I found when I removed it was a bit of "garbage" hanging about inside of it. It came out simply with some tweezers, but it's not something I like to see in something billed as top quality.
With the outlet now back on, you get the idea of how adjustable these pieces are. Of course there are only three positions, but with angled fittings you can go wherever you need to, it is just very handy to have some built in options.
There is really no reason why you should have to do this, but I went ahead and removed the screws going into the pump and this allowed me to separate the aluminum from the pump. Of course there isn't TIM here as it wouldn't do much good, this is just a cover as well as a bit of a functional heatsink for the pump.
In case you missed it in the last image, I wanted to be sure to show that this is in fact the same MCP35X you can get retail, just that it has been specifically adapted with a top for the water block portion.
Flipping the ADII over and removing the copper base plate shows the left over green coolant used to pre-test the block before it left for my house. The way it works is to force water through the center into the base plate, and returns in the top left corner and goes to the outlet.
On the inside of the copper base you can see the ring the o-ring left in the center of the 255 micro-pins. That along with close tolerances forces the cooled liquid through all of these fins and is then collected around the outside edges to return as heated liquid.
Since the block was pre-tested, some of the coolant had oxidized the base of the Apogee Drive II. So to be fair, as I usually do, I removed any oxidation and discoloration to give the mating surface its best chance of thermal conductivity.
PRICING: You can find products similar to this one for sale below.
United States: Find other tech and computer products like this over at Amazon's website.
United Kingdom: Find other tech and computer products like this over at Amazon UK's website.
Canada: Find other tech and computer products like this over at Amazon Canada's website.
Recommended for You
- We at TweakTown openly invite the companies who provide us with review samples / who are mentioned or discussed to express their opinion of our content. If any company representative wishes to respond, we will publish the response here.
Latest News Posts
- Microsoft, Facebook complete 160Tbps undersea cable
- Apple won't let you download 4K, only stream on Apple TV
- Sony isn't 'entirely comfortable' being VR market leader
- G.SKILL launches 128GB DDR4 RAM kit for Threadripper
- Bethesda pursues long-lasting relationship with Nintendo
- Upgrading USB ports on top of case
- Areca ARC-8050T3 12-Bay Thunderbolt 3 RAID DAS Review
- GA-P67A-UD3P-B3 can't change multiplier past 38, can't change turbo ratio with i5 3570k
- TP-Link Archer C3150 Dual-Band Wireless Router Review
- Using Netgear wndr3700 as router extender problem
- AOC announces retail availability of AGON curved QHD gaming monitor
- Seasonic presents the PRIME Ultra power supplies
- EVGA announces GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 ELITE video card
- G.Skill releases AMD Ryzen-optimized Trident Z RGB DDR4 memory
- Hear the difference feel the beat of the DRUM