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Swiftech Apogee Drive II Integrated Pump and Waterblock Review

By: Chad Sebring | CPU Liquid Coolers in Cases, Cooling & PSU | Posted: Oct 16, 2012 3:08 pm
TweakTown Rating: 95%Manufacturer: Swiftech

Inside the Apogee Drive II




First I wanted to just change out the LED plate, not because I don't like red, I just like blue better. At this point you have to remove the four tiny screws and the metal plate with the logo cut into it will lift out of the way.




Once the metal plate is out of the way you can now see the LED pushed into the top of the red plastic block. All I do now is lift the red out and install the LED into the hole in the blue block, and then replace the metal plate.




And here you have a blue version of the Apogee Drive II. I didn't go with the green because I don't like it as much personally, but the process is exactly the same.




Since the POM pieces on the side are adjustable, I thought ahead and removed one to set up an angle that will allow this to point toward the GPU in the loop. What I found when I removed it was a bit of "garbage" hanging about inside of it. It came out simply with some tweezers, but it's not something I like to see in something billed as top quality.




With the outlet now back on, you get the idea of how adjustable these pieces are. Of course there are only three positions, but with angled fittings you can go wherever you need to, it is just very handy to have some built in options.




There is really no reason why you should have to do this, but I went ahead and removed the screws going into the pump and this allowed me to separate the aluminum from the pump. Of course there isn't TIM here as it wouldn't do much good, this is just a cover as well as a bit of a functional heatsink for the pump.




In case you missed it in the last image, I wanted to be sure to show that this is in fact the same MCP35X you can get retail, just that it has been specifically adapted with a top for the water block portion.




Flipping the ADII over and removing the copper base plate shows the left over green coolant used to pre-test the block before it left for my house. The way it works is to force water through the center into the base plate, and returns in the top left corner and goes to the outlet.




On the inside of the copper base you can see the ring the o-ring left in the center of the 255 micro-pins. That along with close tolerances forces the cooled liquid through all of these fins and is then collected around the outside edges to return as heated liquid.




Since the block was pre-tested, some of the coolant had oxidized the base of the Apogee Drive II. So to be fair, as I usually do, I removed any oxidation and discoloration to give the mating surface its best chance of thermal conductivity.

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