Corsair Carbide Series 300R Mid-Tower Case Review (Page 5)

Inside the Corsair Carbide Series 300R Mid-Tower Case

The first look inside the 300R shows what I mean about the diet plan this chassis went on before its debut. Without getting into too much detail at this point, I will address the hardware and accessories box that is tucked away in the hard drive bays. As for the paperwork, it is shipped between the bottom foam and the chassis.

The three 5.25" bays have tool-less latches on this side to hold in any ODD. All you do is slide in the drive until you hear a satisfying click as the tab that says "push" will pop up to lock into place. Pressing that tab will remove the latches grip from the drive and allow it to slide out.

There is a full hard drive rack in the front of the chassis, but that is to support the installed 120mm fan and still offer room for one below next to the hard drive cage that can house four 3.5" and 2.5" drives with use of slide-out plastic trays.

The motherboard tray will accommodate both m-ATX and ATX motherboard using the "bump" style risers. There is one riser pre-installed with a pin on the top that will help hold the board in place while adding the rest of the screws. A large CPU access hole, four wire management holes and four wire tie points also accompany this design.

There is a 120mm fan installed in the rear of the chassis above the three water cooling holes. The seven expansion card slots use replaceable covers and use thumbscrews to securely mount even the weightiest of video cards.

This is just to give you some idea of the room allowed for fans to be installed in the roof of the 300R. There is plenty of room to house the H100, but for thicker radiators room will become an issue.

For shipping the wiring is tied behind the motherboard tray in a large bundle displaying the prowess of this designs ability to hide mass amounts of wires in the 30mm of room.

Even though things were removed and the case seemed sparse, things like the black wiring I like so much were not removed. The power LED, power, reset and HDD activity wires along with the HD Audio cable and native USB 3.0 connection are all long enough to get where they need to be.

To remove the front bezel, give it a tug at the bottom and the six metal clips release and you now have access to remove the bay covers and add another fan to the front if you want. The front I/O is attached to the chassis, so removing the bezel doesn't require the wires to come with it.