Sentey Optimus GS-6000 Mid Tower Chassis Review (Page 7)

| Mar 23, 2011 at 4:41 am CDT
Rating: 90%Manufacturer: Sentey
The Build and Finished Product


Getting things underway I had to remove the front bezel to install the optical drive. All of the front I/o wiring is attached to the bezel so make sure to take care of this early in the build. After you get the wiring clean and tidy, it makes removal of this panel much tougher. The inside of the bezel does offer thin foam dust covers to back the optical bay covers as well as to line the back of the intake. These can be removed and washed as needed.

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With everything installed and ready to run, you can see the front of the chassis doesn't take on any drastic change in appearance. While they do offer a stealth cover for the top slot, had I used it there would be no point to showing off the front of the Optimus at this stage. What I will point out is that even with a DVD drive with a ton of writing on it, it doesn't detract from the sleek and shiny design.

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With everything in place inside the Optimus, I ran into just one small issue. Due to the card I chose to install, the top lock won't go into the locked position due to the plate that runs along the PCB interfering with the lock itself. Due to some personal hard drive issues I had to use a IDE drive for this build. At this point I left the cable off not to detract from the finished product. The rest of the wiring gets where it needs to be, and still offers enough length to clean them up and not leave a mess inside.

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The hole for the rear I/O plate is a perfect fit, and I really liked the foam padding in the PSU installation area. What I wasn't too fond of, is that my VGA has to left hanging a little loose, and as you can see it allows the card to lean heavily to the right side. I know this is a card specific issue, and many standard cards will fit, but it is something to keep in mind.

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Since powering the test system is pretty straight forward I ran most of the power wiring on the other side. While the 8-pin CPU power line may have fit here versus across the motherboard, there is not a hole at the top to get it to the motherboard, so that was out. The 24-pin wouldn't fit, so that left me just needing to power a couple of fans and make sure the front panel has its power as well. I would have liked it more if the trays weren't blocked at this end for the hard drives. It would make for a cleaner install if the SATA cables and power leads were in the back of the chassis.

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At this point I plugged in the hard drive and powered the unit on. To my dismay I had yet to install an OS on the drive, so I didn't get the activity light at boot. But I did test it later and I assure you the strip just under the power and reset does coincide with the activity of the hard drive. The rest of the chassis will either glow blue LEDs through the door panel or through the front ventilation. Accenting both of the LED fans the white strip that runs down the center of the intake is now glowing with blue LEDs as well.

Last updated: Apr 7, 2020 at 12:30 pm CDT

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After a year of gaming, Chad caught the OC bug. With overclocking comes the need for better cooling, and Chad has had many air and water setups. With a few years of abusing computer parts, he decided to take his chances and try to get a review job. As an avid overclocker, Chad is always looking for the next leg up in RAM, cooling, as well as peripherals.

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