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BitFenix Colossus Full Tower Chassis (Page 5)

By Chad Sebring on Aug 31, 2010 10:52 am CDT
Rating: 96%Manufacturer: BitFenix

Inside The BitFenix Colossus Full Tower Case"


I wanted to show the inside of the door panels. BitFenix even took steps to make the back of the panel clean. With use of a thick plastic liner and some well placed screws, all you see is the two pin connector that powers the lights.


There is a lot to cover inside the case as well. Let me just stay simple here and cover that the case is very roomy inside and as I said, the interior matches the exterior in color, whether you buy the white one or the black one.


The five 5.25" drives use these tool-less clips on both sides of the bays. With the BitFenix logo in the middle they are unlocked. If you are to push the logo in and slide them forward, they will lock the drive into place. Using them on both sides of the bays makes for a very secure final install of the drives. I couldn't move mine at all once locked in with these.


The seven 3.5" bays use a plastic tray that will lock the drive in place. To use these, you simply flex the tray around a 3.5" drive, or with the use of a few included screws, screw in a 2.5" drive to the base of the trays. The rack here is built in a very open design to allow that 230mm fan in front of it to get good flow into the chassis.


The motherboard tray has everything you will need to get a clean finished product, both in front of the tray and behind. Not only are there seven separate grommets for wire management, there are sixteen "loops" punched into the tray to allow wire tie points either here or on the reverse side. Of you look at the floor of the Colossus, you see rubber supports to keep the PSU off the floor of the case, and there is an internal dust filter covering the optional fan hole to the right of it.


The expansion slots have vented covers for the slots you won't be using. What I did like is the beefy, plastic, tool-lees locks in the Colossus. I have seen everything from cheap plastic tabs, to steel latches in a Lian Li, and to be honest, these hold a card just as secure as the steel version.


All of the chassis wiring stems from the front I/O and is sent directly behind the motherboard tray first. This wiring includes the HDD activity, power LED, power, and reset in shorter lengths, stopping along with the e-SATA length. The audio cable is a little longer to get to the far side of the motherboard, and the USB 3.0 and the three lighting connections spill onto the table.


Looking under the roof we see the 230mm fan used to exhaust the chassis. It is well clear of any cooler you decide to use, so don't worry about clearance issues here. Just to the right is the PCB for the USB 3.0 connectivity. If your motherboard doesn't have that tech on it yet, you can simply unplug them here and stash them away for a later date. You may notice that the bottom of the storage tray is white. I have to assume that is due to this being a work in progress, and you should receive a black one if you buy the black chassis.


You can obviously see the wiring and the CPU access hole in the back of the tray, but what you can't tell from this angle it's that there is plenty of room to hide all the wiring you need to back here. I don't care if your PSU isn't modular. With a few zip ties and some creativity, you have a lot of room to play with here.

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Chad Sebring


Jumping into computers for just the aspect of gaming is how it all started for me. After a solid year of gaming, I caught the overclocking bug. With overclocking comes the need for better cooling, and I have had both air and water setups to tinker with. With a few years of abusing computer parts, I looked for something new. I then decided to take my chances and try to get a review job with a online site. As an avid overclocker, I am always looking for the next leg up in RAM, cooling, as well as peripherals technology.

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