Cooler Master USP 100 (RC-P100-RKR1) Mid Tower Case (Page 5)

| May 27, 2010 at 11:06 am CDT
Rating: 94%Manufacturer: Cooler Master
Inside the Cooler Master USP 100 Mid Tower Case


Removing the door took the removal of two screws like you find when mounting a PSU, but once they are out the panel slides off effortlessly. Inside you will find the power supply and its wiring tied neatly near the floor and a box of hardware stashed in the hard drive bays. The front I/O wiring is held back with wiring management, but the power supply power cord was left floating around inside during shipping.

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All of the unpainted steel has an SEC coating on it to prevent corrosion and riveted together to give you these four 5.25" bays, and the seven 3.5" bays, one of which is for a floppy drive and has a swappable front cover. Just in front you will see the only fan included. To be real honest, most of it is blocked by the bays, so I would plan to add more once the chassis arrives.

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I removed the PSU for clarity so you would have a better look at the motherboard tray. At the top there is a large hole for CPU cooler back plate access and the tray had risers and wiring "holders" already installed.

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The rear of the chassis is lacking the optional exhaust fan and will allow air to passively flow out the fan area and the section alongside the expansion slots. I would strongly suggest adding at least one fan here to actively draw out the heat.

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Wiring is kept simple. Included here is the front fan wiring on the left that offers both 3-pin and 4-pin Molex connectivity. From the I/O area we see one USB 2.0 connection and the HD Audio and AC' 97 connectors. And in the background are the power, power LED and HDD activity connections.

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Looking from the opposite side and it's a little hard to tell from a photo, but the tray is set deeper than usual. This should allow for most of the wiring to easily be routed back here and not take three men and a small child to get the panel back on.

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Underneath the case you will find two rather chunky back feet, and the front built mostly from plastic with rubber pads for support. In the floor of the chassis you will see the ventilated areas. The one to the left is obviously for the power supply and Cooler Master offers a space for another fan to draw the cool air in from the bottom.

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Removing the front bezel just takes a tug from the bottom and it releases easily. Be careful when removing it completely, as all the front I/O and LED wiring are attached directly to the panel, so be sure the other ends are free to be pulled. In the chassis there are steel panels that need to be removed if you plan to occupy those slots and as you can see the fan is slightly impeded with the fancy design of the holes rather than just a more open pattern like the side and rear fan holes. The bezel itself has tabs to release the red mesh covers. The bottom half uses the red mesh as a fan filter and has a honeycomb design to allow for air flow and support for the mesh.

Last updated: Apr 7, 2020 at 12:29 pm CDT

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After a year of gaming, Chad caught the OC bug. With overclocking comes the need for better cooling, and Chad has had many air and water setups. With a few years of abusing computer parts, he decided to take his chances and try to get a review job. As an avid overclocker, Chad is always looking for the next leg up in RAM, cooling, as well as peripherals.

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