Inside the Antec P280 Super Mid Tower Chassis
Our first look inside the P280 shows us things like the thumbscrews in the expansion slots, the room above the motherboard for internal water cooling, as well as the more typical bays on the right. The hardware and paperwork was left to move freely inside during transit.
The 5.25" bays use tool-less latches on this side of the bays and with use of metal tabs pressing on the other side of the drive, makes for a very solid fit with just the clips holding the drive in place.
Under the trio of optical drive bays, there is a pair of dedicated bays for 2.5" drives. The tabs on the side rails press against the drives and with just one thumbscrew; they get mounted securely in the chassis.
That leaves the six 3.5" or 2.5" drive bays continuing to the floor of the chassis. Each slot uses a removable tray that holds a 3.5" drive and also offers mounting for 2.5" drives in each tray. The left of the drives have clips placed on the rack to allow you to clip in a pair of 120mm fans if you wish to.
The motherboard tray in this mid tower offers room for boards up to XL-ATX in size! At the top is a pair of holes for wiring with as much metal removed for CPU cooler access as possible without weakening the chassis. To manage the wiring, Antec offers four more holes at the side and bottom with grommets and plenty of places to tie up the wiring.
In the back you find the third included fan in the P280. From the inside looking out, you can see that the back of the chassis is well ventilated and will allow for good front to back air flow through the additional mesh and open expansions slot covers.
Above the rear exhaust fan is where all the wiring gets tucked to control and power the trio of 120mm TwoCool Fans. In order to get power to these three fans, you will need to run a 4-pin Molex power lead to this panel.
Behind the motherboard tray there is up to 30mm of room for wiring in the deepest spots. To the left of the tray is a support bar that runs the height of the case and offers less room for wiring there. As you can see once the trays are removed, the hard drives have no obstructions on this side for the wiring.
To remove the front you must remove a pair of screws from the inside before you pull off the bezel. Once that is done you will find that the wiring is connected to the bezel and you need to address this area before you wire it to the motherboard.
On the other end of the wiring, you get connectivity for the HD Audio, native USB 3.0, USB 2.0, and in the back the power, reset, HDD and power LED wiring. The issue is that these are very short, and once connected, the front bezel will not come off. A bit more length in these wires would have been greatly appreciated!
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