Inside the Lian Li PC-V352 B Desktop / HTPC Chassis
Removing those seven thumbscrews allows you to slide out the motherboard tray and start to get a look inside. You will find your box of hardware strapped in where the PSU goes. After this, it's just the removal of twelve screws and we can get the side panels off as well.
The motherboard tray has all the holes you will need to place either a m-ITX or m-ATX motherboard in place. The left half of the tray gets a bit more interesting. The 80mm fan is placed high to keep the top half of the chassis cool and supply the hard drive area with a bit of spot cooling. To the right of the fan is a PCB with a switch on the other side for high and low settings of the chassis fans. This PCB gets powered with a Molex adapter and can provide power to all three 3-pin fan connectors. If you do plan to fill all four ventilated slots with cards, don't worry, that's why the side panels are drilled, to allow the 120mm fan air flow to go out there.
With the sides and motherboard tray out of the way you can get a better idea of the layout from here. As you can see, the front I/O wiring goes to the rear of the case and back to the front, so there is plenty of length for easy connectivity.
Spinning the case 180° from the last image, we can get to the removal of the sub assemblies found inside the Pc-V352. To remove the 5.25" drive sled simply unscrew the spring loaded thumbscrew under the bottom cover and slide the whole assembly out this side and set it aside for later.
With the panels out of the way it is a good time to contemplate which side you want to access the I/O and drives. If access from the right side of the chassis isn't going to work, just pull two screws and gently feed the wiring through. Remove the cover from the other side and reverse the process. Included with this I/O is not only USB 3.0 connectivity, but a handy little card reader as well; perfect for showing your latest snapshots on the TV in the living room.
The front 120mm fans are designed to ride in a frame via rubber washers. This allows for the fans to be able to be slid and removed for easy access to the dust filters that protect the system from growing a small animals worth of dust inside. As an added measure, these fans also include fan grills in case there is a need to reach inside the chassis while it is running, and also helps keep loose wiring from getting near the blades.
Looking in from the rear of the chassis to the left of the power supply, you will find the rack to accept up to three 3.5" devices. In order to more easily screw the drive in, the cage is removable once the two thumbscrews in the bottom are removed.
With all the components out of the chassis it really starts to look roomy, and the quest to pack it full of goods doesn't seem so daunting any longer.
The wiring includes everything you will need to get things under way. There is of course the power switch, reset, power LED and HDD LED connections. Then there are the 3-pin connections and Molex adapters for the front fans. There is the USB 3.0 connections that need plugging into the rear I/O, or they can be used with an adapter for USB 2.0. That leaves just the e-SATA, HD Audio, and the card reader connection.